Famed freethought orator Robert Green Ingersoll returned to the county of his birth only once, when he was fifty-six years of age. On September 24, 1889, he arrived in Penn Yan, the seat of Yates County, accompanied by his wife Eva and his daughters Maud and Eva. (Plainly this was a sentimental journey, as Ingersoll almost invariably traveled alone on his lecture tours.) The family lodged at the Benham House, Penn Yan's finest hotel. Later that day the Ingersolls visited the nearby village of Dresden, visiting his birthplace and the former church (by then a private residence) where his father had once preached.
On September 25, Ingersoll gave a free lecture to a crowd of eight thousand persons at the Yates County Fair. Much of his oration's content was drawn from his 1877 speech "About Farming in Illinois," an apt choice for the rural audience. In an unusual turn toward religious imagery, he declared: "To plow is to pray, to plant is to prophesy, and the harvest answers and fulfills." But Ingersoll was not above engaging in some local puffery: "I want to congratulate myself that I was born in Yates County, the most beautiful spot in New York State, although I went away from here nearly fifty-six years ago. Since that time I have seen much of the world. I have been in many places and seen many people. As I come back again I will congratulate myself that I was born in such a splendid, lovely county."
He also made more substantive remarks while remaining in a jovial, celebratory register: "Let us congratulate each other again that we are citizens of such a great republic. I want to hasten the day when liberty will preside throughout the earth, when labor will be adequately rewarded, when there will be no more slavery, no more suffering, no more criminals, no more penitentiaries, nothing but happiness. The only thing in the world worth living for is happiness. I want to see the day when liberty, fraternity, and equality, like the rings of Saturn, shall encompass and surround this world of ours."
A local newspaper covered the event in ecstatic terms: "There is nothing that can compare with the original and the magnetic presence, voice, manner, and indescribable humor of the incomparable Ingersoll himself. He is a marvel of natural gifts, talents, and graces, and whatsoever his religious views and opinions may be, there are but few better men today on the face of our little planetary world."
The Site. From 1871 to the mid-1950s, the Yates County Fair was held on a parcel east of Lake Street, extending from around the present-day intersection of Lake and Monell Streets to a southern boundary defined by present-day South Avenue. (Before 1871, the Fair had been held on Keuka Street in downtown Penn Yan; since the 1950s it has been held on a suburban tract off of East Main Street.) Today most of the site is occupied by a shopping center, the Lake Street Plaza.
Thanks to Richard MacAlpine for research assistance.
The Yates County Fair ran this ad in the Penn Yan Express for September 18, 1889, promoting Ingersoll's appearance at the fair. Image courtesy Richard MacAlpine.
This image of the horse racing track at the Yates County Fair dates to 1908, but things probably did not look too much different when Ingersoll spoke in 1889. Photo courtesy Richard MacAlpine.
Robert Green Ingersoll and his two daughters, Maud and Eva, arrived in Penn Yan on September 24, 1889 via the Fall Brook Railway, and were greeted on arrival by the railroad's president. They stayed at what was then Penn Yan's premier hotel, the Benham House. After receiving some visitors the party proceeded to Dresden to view Ingersoll's birthplace and the former church where his father had preached.
Viewed from Monell Street across Lake Street, the former county fair site is now the mid-twentieth-century Lake Street Plaza. The entrance to the former fairgrounds probably occupied the site of the present gas station (to left of the stop sign), with the fairgrounds extending rearward and to the right of the stop sign.
Closer view of the Lake Street Plaza, a faded strip plaza that includes a small cinema triplex and a modest-sized anchor department store. Everything seen here would have been part of the fairgrounds when Ingersoll visited in 1889.
The Fall Brook Route was a regional rail line founded in 1876 as the Syracuse, Geneva, and Corning Railway Company. It ran 58 miles between Corning and Geneva and had a 7-mile spur between Dresden and Penn Yan. Built as a partnership between the New York Central Railroad and the Watkins-based Fall Brook Coal Company, it was known locally as the Fall Brook Route even though it did not formally adopt that name until 1892. In 1914 the Fall Brook was absorbed fully into New York Central. Part of the line exists today and may be traced as it passes north and south about a mile west of the Seneca Lake shoreline, then takes a southwesternly route to Corning. It is now operated by the Finger Lakes Railway. Thanks to Glenda Gephardt for research assistance.
September 24, 1889
September 25, 1889
September 24–25, 1889